Sealer FAQ

This page is a work in progress, but we will post some of our frequently asked questions about sealing equipment and materials.   If you do not find the answer you are looking for, please contact us.





How do I choose a sealer?

When selecting a sealer, it is important to have a sense of the material which will be sealed. Try and have the material thickness and width available as this will make your selection process much easier. This will ensure the sealer you purchase is capable of sealing your material.

To read more -

What is the difference between an impulse and direct heat sealer?

Impulse sealers - require no warm up time and seal by applying a pulse of energy to the sealing area, followed immediately by cooling. Impulse sealers only use power when the jaw is lowered. **So if you are just sealing your every day poly bags, an impulse sealer will do the trick.**

Direct heat sealers (constant heat) - maintain constant heat in both jaws. Direct heat sealers use power as long as the machine is turned on. As a result, direct heat sealers possess better heat penetration in order to seal thicker materials. **If you are sealing thicker materials such as kraft paper or anything with gussets, go with a direct heat sealer.**

To read more -




How many seals can my sealer seal before I need to change the element (heating wire) and PTFE adhesive/cloth?

A sealer can seal between 1,000-5,000 seals before the element becomes worn and breaks. This number will vary significantly based on the timer setting. 

Note: Thicker materials will require a higher timer setting, which will decrease the number of seals.

When do I change my element (heating wire)?

When the element breaks, it is time to change to a new element. If you change the element, we absolutely, absolutely recommend changing the PTFE adhesive (bottom adhesive strip) found underneath the element.  See our answer below for more information.

When do I change the PTFE cloth and adhesive?

For the PTFE cover, we recommend changing the cover BEFORE it burns through. As the cover wears, you will see a discoloration where it comes into contact with the element, you may also notice that your element is sticking to the thermoplastic material you are sealing. You can maneuver the cover back and forth to allow the element to come into contact with the unused portions of the PTFE cover.

For the PTFE adhesive, you must replace the bottom sealing strip whenever you change the element. The adhesive serves as a barrier between the heating element and the sealer's body. When the sealer's heating element has burned through the bottom adhesive and arc'ed on the sealer's body, the element will break as well as destroy the timer. When you replace your adhesive, make sure the adhesive is 1/4"-1/2" past the machine on both ends to prevent the heating element from coming into contact with the sealer's body.

What setting should I set my timer?

Your timer should be set at the level that the sealer will seal your material. Always start at the lowest setting and gradually increase the setting. If the timer is set higher than what is needed to seal the material, then the heating element will break and the PTFE adhesive will be damaged as well. Use trial & error to find the lowest setting that will seal your material.




Can I change my 2mm seal width sealer to a 5mm seal width?

Unfortunately, the answer is no. A 2mm and 5mm sealer utilize two different transformers and putting a 5mm heating element on a 2mm sealer could irreparably damage your sealer. Round wires and 2mm wires, however, are interchangeable.

What type of material can my impulse sealer seal?

Impulse sealers can instant seal a variety of poly materials including but not limited to: Polyethylene, Saran, Nylon, Polyvinylchloride, Polypropylene, Pliofilm, Kel-F, Mylar, Polyflex, Polyurethane, and Polyvinyl alcohol.

I notice that my sealer is arcing (or sparking) when I try and seal my material? What do I do?

 If you are experiencing arcing when you seal your material, most likely, you have worn out your element and PTFE adhesive and MUST replace them before you damage the timer.

I can't seem to create a nice looking seal...I have tried different timer settings and nothing works.

With impulse sealers, there must be a cooling step added to your sealing process to make a proper seal on the plastic bag or film.  When creating a seal, hold the seal arm or upper jaw down for an ADDITIONAL 2-4 seconds to set the seal.  Please download our guide for more information.

My sealer is not sealing. What do I do?

The #1 most common issue is maintenance. If your sealer is not working, check to see if your element is broken and/or your PTFE adhesive has worn through. If the element comes into contact with the body of the sealer due to a worn adhesive, the element may have "shorted" and caused damage to the timer. If both elements and PTFE adhesives are good condition, we recommend taking a look at the microswitch (small unit that allows an electrical current to pass through when the arm is brought down) and the electronic timer (unit that controls the seal cycle duration.)

My impulse sealer is not sealing. When I push the arm down, there is no light or "click." What is wrong?

When you do not hear a "click, click" when you bring the arm down to the base of the sealer, that is a sign that the microswitch is not activated and there is no electrical current being transferred. We suggest making some easy slight adjustments to the microswitch.  Please UNPLUG the unit before making any adjustments.